|
|
| Building
a retaining wall or garden steps |
| Before
you start |
|
|
| 1.
check with your council |
| Low
garden edging can usually be installed without council approval.
However, walls over 1 m will generally need to be designed and
certified by a suitably qualified engineer. Walls in locations
close to buildings or driveways, in places where significant
ground water or storm water build up can be expected, in steep
or unstable terrain, or where there is reactive clay or fine
sandy soils, may need special attention. If in doubt, please
contact your local council before proceeding |
| Linkwall |
| 2.
check off your equipment |
| •
garden gloves •
spade
•
spirit
level •
wheelbarrow
•
stakes
and string •
small
broom •
pencil
and square •
rubber
mallet |
| •
100m
diameter AG pipe (if drainage required) •
road
base (granular material) for foundations |
| •
blue
metal (or gravel) for backfill |
| If
you need to split blocks, you’ll also need...
•
safety glasses •
hammer
and bolster |
| For
larger jobs you may also require...
•
skid
loader •
wacker
packer •
ear
muffs •
circularsaw
with masonry blade |
| •
geosynthetic
reinforcement mesh |
| 3.
work out how many blocks you need |
| |
1.
Determine the wall length and wall height |
| |
2.
Multiply length by height to get the m3 wall face
area |
| |
3.
Multiply this figure by the number of block units
per m3 |
|
eg
|
Meadow
Stone = 16.6 units per m3 |
|
Tasman
= 13 units per m3 |
|
Balmoral
= 26 units per m3 |
|
Heathstone
= 14 units per m3 |
|
Terrace
= 10 units per m3 |
|
Canturbury
= 30 units per m3 |
| Add
2% to this figure to allow for mishaps and get to
it |
|
|
|
|
