If
you have clay soil, or soil that
drains slowly after rain, save your back and don't dig into it to
plant your tree.
Loosen up the surface, spread some gypsum and mound up some good garden
soil and plant into that. This will give your tree good drainage.
By the time it's roots get down to the original soil level, the gypsum,
worms and organic matter will have done their job and loosened up
the soil enough to allow the roots to draw nutrients from the clay.
If your soil is more open or even sandy
then the addition of some organic matter will help to give your tree
a good start. The compost should be VERY WELL DECOMPOSED before you
use it near your plants. A compost such as Kriedemanns organic compost
or composted cow manure can be mixed with the existing soil to plant
your tree.
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how
to plant trees |
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Dig
a hole roughly twice the size of the root ball of the new plant, ensuring
there is no glazing on the sides of the hole. Backfill and place the
tree so that the finished level of the rootball is the same level
as the surrounding soil.
Never place fertiliser or lawn clippings in the hole when you plant.
(Specially made slow release plant pills are the exception). Do not
fertilise your new tree until you see new growth on the tree after
planting. Then apply an organic fertiliser such as Organic Xtra to
the drip zone of the plant.
Give your new tree a stake to help keep it stable while it establishes
its new roots.
The next job is to place mulch around the area you have planted. Mulch
helps maintain even soil moisture and temperature and keeps down the
competition from weeds. Keep the mulch clear of the stem to minimise
the risk of fungal infections in the stem. |
Keep
your new tree well watered until it is established. Remember the whole
tree depends on quite a small rootball so don't let it dry out particularly
in hot, dry and windy weather.
If your fruit tree is a grafted variety, always remove any shoots
which form below the graft. Fruit trees take a bit of maintenance
to achieve optimum results. Please talk to us about the requirements
of your plants.
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| water
restrictions ? - yes you can have a great garden using less water! |
| Use these
proven methods in garden beds or pots and you will save time and water
in the garden. |
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improve
the soil
Organic
matter absorbs and holds moisture within the soil. Add compost, animal
manure or organic matter to help water to stay in the root zone for
longer. Use of water crystals or wetting agents is also recommended |
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create
groups of plants in your garden based on their water needs....
Placing
plants with similar water requirements together makes it easier to
get the right amount of water to different plants. Some plants naturally
require less water than others. If you have some 'thirsty' favourites
try placing them in one area which is less exposed and which is easy
to water if they need it |
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use
correct watering techiques…
Watering
deeply but less often encourages deep roots and prevents disease (although
some sandy soils may need shorter more frequent bursts). Don't 'fairy
water' the foliage - keep watering slow and low. To reduce evaporation
water early in the day or late in the evening and don't water if it
is very windy. |
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water
the garden only when it needs it...
Water plants
only when they really need a drink. If the soil is damp or the plants
look good wait another day to water. Landscape to channel rainwater
into your garden beds. |
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mulch
the soil surface...
Mulching
cuts down the water loss due to evaporation. Use straw, compost, pine
bark, chopped lucerne or sugar cane. Mulch should be 7 to 10 centimetres
deep and needs to be topped up regularly. Leave some space around
the stem or trunk of the plant. Don't forget your pots! |
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