you have clay soil, or soil that drains slowly after rain, save your
back and don't dig into it to plant your tree.
Loosen up the surface, spread some gypsum and mound up some good garden
soil and plant into that. This will give your tree good drainage.
By the time it's roots get down to the original soil level, the gypsum,
worms and organic matter will have done their job and loosened up
the soil enough to allow the roots to draw nutrients from the clay.
If your soil is more
open or even sandy then the addition of some organic matter will help
to give your tree a good start. The compost should be VERY WELL DECOMPOSED
before you use it near your plants. A compost such as Kriedemanns
organic compost or composted cow manure can be mixed with the existing
soil to plant your tree.
to plant trees
Dig a hole roughly twice the size of the root ball of the new plant,
ensuring there is no glazing on the sides of the hole. Backfill and
place the tree so that the finished level of the rootball is the same
level as the surrounding soil.
Never place fertiliser or lawn clippings in the hole when you plant.
(Specially made slow release plant pills are the exception). Do not
fertilise your new tree until you see new growth on the tree after
planting. Then apply an organic fertiliser such as Organic Xtra to
the drip zone of the plant.
Give your new tree a stake to help keep it stable while it establishes
its new roots
The next job is to place mulch around the area you have planted. Mulch
helps maintain even soil moisture and temperature and keeps down the
competition from weeds. Keep the mulch clear of the stem to minimise
the risk of fungal infections in the stem
your new tree well watered until it is established. Remember the whole
tree depends on quite a small rootball so don't let it dry out particularly
in hot, dry and windy weather
If your fruit tree is a grafted variety, always remove any shoots
which form below the graft. Fruit trees take a bit of maintenance
to achieve optimum results. Please talk to us about the requirements
of your plants.
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restrictions ? - yes you can have a great garden using less water!
these proven methods in garden beds or pots and you will save time
and water in the garden
Organic matter absorbs and holds moisture within the soil. Add compost,
animal manure or organic matter to help water to stay in the root
zone for longer. Use of water crystals or wetting agents is also recommended
groups of plants in your garden based on their water needs....
Placing plants with similar water requirements together makes it easier
to get the right amount of water to different plants. Some plants
naturally require less water than others. If you have some 'thirsty'
favourites try placing them in one area which is less exposed and
which is easy to water if they need it
correct watering techiques
Watering deeply but less often encourages deep roots and prevents
disease (although some sandy soils may need shorter more frequent
bursts). Don't 'fairy water' the foliage - keep watering slow and
low. To reduce evaporation water early in the day or late in the evening
and don't water if it is very windy
the garden only when it needs it...
Water plants only when they really need a drink. If the soil is damp
or the plants look good wait another day to water. Landscape to channel
rainwater into your garden beds
the soil surface...
Mulching cuts down the water loss due to evaporation. Use straw, compost,
pine bark, chopped lucerne or sugar cane. Mulch should be 7 to 10
centimetres deep and needs to be topped up regularly. Leave some space
around the stem or trunk of the plant. Don't forget your pots!